Innovation, trend ingredients and sustainability
17th November 2020
由Lisa Nahrwold博士实验室经理Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie was established in 1998 and now offers far more than distribution and logistics services to its customers around the world. In-depth technical expertise to advise customers, providing innovative formulations according to current market trends, and customized project support have become just as important as an attractive product portfolio. Laboratory Manager Dr Lisa Nahrwold gives some insight into today’s trends in the personal care sector.
Biesterfeld was once known as a distributor of silicones, but the product portfolio has completely changed since then and nowadays features ingredients for natural cosmetics, including various emollients, functionals, actives, pigments and conventional surfactants. Active portfolio management involves not only responding to current technical and market trends and regulations, but also foreseeing changing demands and offering variety to customers.
Constantly looking for interesting raw materials
Recent industry trends reveal a stronger demand for natural and naturally-derived raw materials. Consumers are increasingly focused on sustainable solutions, avoiding microplastics and looking for silicone alternatives. As a technical distributor of speciality chemicals, Biesterfeld is in a unique position to engage directly with manufacturers and customers and in this way is continually involved with developments in the market, as well as having active dialogue with customers to comply with their requirements and fulfil their needs.
除了化妆品的性能,消费者基于“增大化现实”技术e noticeably increasingly cautious about the ingredients in their products. Natural, clean and green cosmetics have seen significant growth in the industry. The same goes for upcycled ingredients, such as food by-products, which are already established as a source of natural ingredients and are widely used in cosmetic and personal care products. For example, GENENCARE OSMS MI (INCI: inositol), an osmoprotectant and moisturizer, is derived from sugar beet. It protects the skin from damage caused by heat, for example, and regulates the water balance of cells. It is a myo-inositol of natural origin that can be used for certified natural cosmetics and is ideal for applications in skin and hair care products as well as in decorative cosmetics.
索取具有公平贸易食材的无棕榈化妆品的消费者将欣赏prodhysoft abk（Inci：Allanblackia Stuhlmannii种子黄油），这是一种可持续的，无棕榈的植物性黄油，是宇宙批准的。该产品起源于坦桑尼亚，该项目支持当地社区。来自水果种子的黄油可减少表皮水分流失，并提供持久的水合。一致性剂是无味的，并在皮肤上留下了哑光，闪亮的饰面。它具有独特的感觉曲线，并导致较少的结晶，这是口红配方的理想选择。它也适用于护肤，护发，（之后）太阳护理和彩色化妆品应用。
展望更远的趋势,已经成为established in the beauty care space, CBD oil is one of the new ingredients to watch out for, however, not everyone is confident about using CBD oil in their formulations. A favourable alternative can be found in the patent pending ingredient Asyntra CBD-Alt (INCI: isosorbide dicaprylate/bakuchiol/ethyl linoleate). It can also be formulated in synergy with CBD/hemp oil to protect the skin from stress. The blend is adapted for sensitive skins and inhibits anandamide degradation, which helps to reduce inflammation, reduces stress and strengthen the skin surface.
对于避免使用合成聚合物的制剂，可以用Solamaze（INCI：DioSostearoyl polygyceryl-3二聚体二聚体（和）磷酸/二甘油酸酯）代替这些成分，这是适合日晒应用的理想选择。这款基于生物的新型，可生物降解的膜形成聚合物为高SPF乳液Sun Care应用提供了出色的防水性和令人愉悦的美学。它也可以用于彩色化妆品以及面部，身体，手和脚霜和乳液。它是这些应用中使用的合成聚合物的一种非常有吸引力的天然衍生替代品。
随着消费者意识的提高，化妆品的包装也变得越来越重要。例如，固体配方看到更多的需求，并开始替代常规的洗发水和护发素。随着水已经成为稀缺的资源，这不仅减少了塑料废物，而且还减少了配方的水含量。As such, ‘Blue Gold’ formulations allow the consumer to mix the concentrate with water themselves, thus having a positive environmental impact as less water is used during the production cycle and the overall carbon footprint is reduced during when transporting the product from the manufacturer to the consumer – all this is achieved without, of course, compromising on performance.
Modern distribution – far more than trading
As art of its strategy, Biesterfeld has recently been launching a new cosmetic formulation kit every year inspired by current trends and using innovative raw materials. The formulation kit is a complimentary service to customers, not only sharing formulations and product know-how but also giving them inspiration for developing new products and reacting to market developments. The latest Masquerade formulation kit reflects global beauty and consumer trends such as clean beauty, sustainability and #noplastics. These formulations are characterized by purity and naturalness. There are nine innovative mask formulations for the hair, face, eyes, lips, body, hands and feet which care for the skin with natural active ingredients, reviving the skin’s and hair’s natural beauty. The masks are either ready-to-use or for mixing with water, offering the consumer a DIY effect with a home-spa-like approach. One example is the Hocus Pocus bubbling face mask, which includes the above-mentioned GENENCARE OSMS MI as a moisturizing ingredient. The mask surprises the user with its bubbling effect on the skin, while its active foam treats the face. It provides intense moisture, delivering youthful-feeling skin with an invigorating citrus scent.
Diversity is not limited to the product portfolio but also includes serving different markets and their distinctive demands. For example, in Poland, there is a strong focus on skin care and colour cosmetics, whereas the Turkish market predominantly concentrates on hair care applications. The Nordic region is characterized by a strong tendency towards natural and sustainable ingredients while looking for products with specific benefits and unique functionalities. With Biesterfeld’s acquisition of the Norwegian distributor Lindberg & Lund, the company is now expanding its geographical footprint in the Nordic region and is building a Personal Care Hub in the area. It is the role of the distributor to adjust its product offering and services according to individual market dynamics.